National Geographic Traveller Food Festival 2023
The Festival
As the name suggests, the festival is a celebration of
global cuisines all brought together under a single roof. Predominantly, the
venue hosts exhibitors from around the world featuring aspects of their home
foods, some with produce to sell, and others offering a taste of street food.
There are a handful of theatres with many sessions throughout the day,
providing an overview of what each exhibitor has to offer. Some of the talks
teach recipes, while others aim to educate the audience about the food and
drinks from their respective regions. I spent most of my time in these theatres,
but I also took a few strolls around. Be prepared for large crowds; it can get
quite busy!
Many years ago, I regularly attended the BBC Good Festival
at Olympia, this had a similar vibe, but in a much smaller venue, and a primary
focus on foreign food. Given the travel involved and the fact that I had
already explored most of the stands, it felt like a good decision. If I were
closer, I would have considered returning for the second day of talks.
London Calling
Completely by chance, or
perhaps due to a well-trained algorithm stalking me across the internet, I came
across an advertisement for the National Geographic Traveller Food Festival.
After a few pop-ups, I decided to take a look and purchased a ticket. It's not
usual behaviour for me to venture out, but there are plans related to this blog
for that to change.
I had the opportunity to catch
up with a friend I had made at a previous foodie event that I've written about,
featuring Sorted Food and the Earthshot Prize charity. Typically, my trips out
are solo excursions, so this was a pleasant change that I appreciated. Their
local knowledge enhanced our day out.
The venue for the 2023 event
is the Business Design Centre in Islington. Not being a frequent visitor to
London, I had to look this up. It's not the largest of venues, but fortunately,
it's a short stroll from Angel tube station. The train journey took about an
hour and a half, a bit on the long side, but at least it was a beautiful day
for a wander.
The Talks
As mentioned earlier, my
primary interest lay in the talks from different regions because, aside from
tasting sessions, I was there predominantly to learn. An important tip for the
sessions is to arrive early if you want to secure a seat. They can get very
crowded, and while standing is fine, let's be honest, you'd prefer a seat.
I checked out the sessions I
wanted to see the most in advance so I could secure a seat. There was one by
Thomasina Miers, of Wahaca fame, that I would've liked to attend, but it was
scheduled for the early morning, and it would have meant a very early start for
me. So, I made the decision to let it go in favor of a more relaxed morning.
Having said that, I managed to attend all the talks I had prioritized and even
caught a few others.
Greece
The chef leading the Greek setup was George Palisidis. While they may have lacked some organizational skills, they more than made up for it with their hospitality. It felt like the host was trying to tame a hurricane of enthusiasm from the chef's compatriots. The session was not only informative but also entertaining. I even won a three-foot-long rolling pin made for Filo pastry. In case you're wondering how I won it, I asked a question about the protein content of the flour being used, and apparently, it was a good enough question to earn me a prize.
George was making a Hortopita pie, a filo pie traditionally stuffed with feta and wild greens. As with many who are proud of their craft, authenticity was of utmost importance. The chef had even picked greens the day before and flown them over to the UK, presumably in his checked luggage. There was even a demonstration of making filo pastry, which I had seen before, but it was still interesting. There was some audience participation in the pastry-making and rolling, which provided some added amusement. Given the chaotic nature of the talk, it felt like something that would fit right in on a show like the Generation Game.
Greek cuisine isn't usually something that piques my interest, but I was completely converted, thanks to the mandatory samples and the infectious enthusiasm of the people. At first, I had a bit of trouble paying attention while the entourage went about their activities, but that annoyance drifted away as their extreme level of infectious hospitality and enthusiasm was soaked up. Although I didn't sign up for the wine course downstairs, I was provided with a sample of local wine, which, for a non-wine connoisseur like me, was very nice. I ended up buying some. I plan to make Hortopita pie myself, and while I may have to use different greens, stay tuned for that. Of all the day's sessions, this one I attended purely by chance waiting for another, and it turned out to be arguably the most enjoyable.
Louisiana
A common theme throughout the
presentations was the friendliness and hospitality of the guests, and these
chefs were no exception. They had a warmth and authority that carried the talk.
The knowledge the two chefs shared was clearly genuine, as they answered a
variety of questions and added tips as they went along. From a technical
perspective, this was the highlight of the day. It was a learning experience
about Southern barbecue but also enriched my wider range of kitchen skills, all
presented with clarity.
Mississippi
While in the area, let's hop
over to the neighboring state of Mississippi. It was a few hours later, but it
feels right. Nick Wallace introduced us to Tamales, something I'd heard of but
had little knowledge about. This was a taste of the South, with corn being the
star of the show. For those not familiar, Tamales are a corn-based mixture with
a dough-like consistency, usually combined with slow-cooked meats and wrapped
in a dried leaf from a corn husk. I didn't catch the entire segment, but it was
fascinating to learn about the culture as Nick talked about the food and his
home.
I must confess here that I'm a
pescatarian, but I decided to try Tamales. Before any vegetarians click off,
there are vegetarian options available, and there were so many samples being
served that it would have gone to waste otherwise. So, for the sake of intrigue
and the pursuit of knowledge, I gave it a try. While I can't say I'm glad I ate
meat, I do feel that I've grown from being introduced to something new that I
can experiment with later, perhaps with alternative fillings like wild
mushrooms.
Azerbaijan
This was the most intriguing
presentation on the schedule, and I was fortunate to secure a seat, given the
number of people in attendance. Being seated also meant that we were served
some Azerbaijani sweet treats while listening to an explanation of a place I
knew next to nothing about.
Chef Ruslan Alizada and Sakina
Asgarova were the hosts for this session. Sakina stole the show with her
knowledge and pure love of the country and its culture. It was more than just a
talk; it was a joyful demonstration of culture. Tea in Azerbaijan isn't just a
drink; it's part of an experience that includes sweet treats, games, and even
the environment. Unfortunately, there were only a small number of tea samples
available, so I purchased some from Amazon afterward. We learned that there's a
special glass for drinking tea and that the addition of rose water, also
purchased, is essential. The floral notes, in addition to the tea, create a
refreshing drink not dissimilar to what I would associate with Eastern Europe,
which makes sense geographically.
The pastries were very new to
me, with different flavours and a suitable accompaniment to Azerbaijani tea. I
tried to take photos on my phone of the ingredients in each of the treats, but
we received recipe cards to make life easier. I'm not a huge traveller, but
Azerbaijan has managed to change from somewhere that hadn't entered my
consciousness before to a top travel destination because of the people, the
culture, and the beauty of the landscape.
Exhibition
The exhibition floor was
similar to any market you've attended, with an eclectic arrangement of stalls
from across the world. Just like on stage, there was a strong presence from the
USA, and I really enjoyed their offerings, from Charleston Tea to Louisiana hot
sauces (which I'll admit weren't all that hot but were delicious).
I was quite pleased with
myself for identifying the ingredients in a cocktail provided by a Caribbean
stand, down to the Angostura bitters that they hadn't listed. Montenegro had a
long queue for the few samples they had out. I'm not a fan of olives, and I try
them every few years in case my taste has changed, but I still don't like them.
However, being at a food festival, I had to give them a try. Montenegro
produces the olives I dislike the least, which is an achievement.
Interestingly, for a global
event, most of my spending money went to a contingent closer to home. The Welsh
participants were lovely, as expected, and they did themselves proud. I left
with vodka made from coffee grounds, chutney, and marmalade. I had to resist
buying more, such as gin and cheeses. Among the world food produce, the Welsh
participants were a reminder of how wonderful British produce can be and how
it's often overlooked for not being exotic.
Cool Down
The food festival didn't end when we left the venue. We had
a late lunch at Hoppers. I had wanted to see Kuran, the owner, at the festival,
but I didn't get the chance, only to later see him appear at the restaurant. I
had heard about Hoppers a few times and was very pleased with the Sri Lankan
offering. Both the food and drink were incredible. There was a cocktail called
White Ruby Punch, possibly the best cocktail I've had, other than an Old
Fashioned, of course. It contained flavours of Earl Grey and Jasmine, and it
was florally sublime. A further walk on the sweltering afternoon took us to an
Asian supermarket that had some Pokémon-themed soft drinks. With an open mind,
I tried the Horsea Salt Cheese flavour, and it's as vile as you imagine, but it
makes you laugh all the same.
The festival was just the beginning of a wonderful day, but it provided the platform, and I look forward to going again next year. Hopefully, this channel will grow to the extent of a cheeky little press pass. Regardless, I look forward to seeing you there. The dates have already been announced: July 20-21, 2024. Visit National Geographic Traveller to stay up to date.
To beautifully end the day, we rambled along the Thames,
with a Guinness pit stop as the sun started to fall against a glorious rainbow.
Worth a mention is the often unremarkable and packed train home from London, a group of myself and two other unrelated parties sat together, we chatted and laughed the long way way home; I got off the empty carriage being the last stop somewhat lighter and with lightness in my soul.