Cookbook Review: Little Swedish Kitchen
by Rachel Khoo
Hi readers, we’re back to regular content this week; no more
milking the New Year!
This week I’m reviewing a cookbook; I imagine over time this
will become a recurring feature; I have a lot of cookbooks that I’ve collected
over the years.
One of the first things that got me into cooking when I was
young was receiving a cookbook; I actually gave my niece a copy of the first
one that I had for Christmas just gone. I hope it gets her into cooking as much
as it did for me.
Somehow this is the first book review on this blog, I’ve
mentioned a few others, but no dedicated posts. We’re starting off with a
relatively new addition to my collection that I bought towards the end of last
year, while out Christmas shopping for others.
Browsing the shelves of the bookshop this one caught my eye
because I’d recently watched the associated TV program, and I really enjoy
watching the chef.
I’ll be reviewing, as the title of the post suggests, Rachel
Khoo’s ‘My Little Swedish Kitchen’. When I bought the book, I was quite
excited, being both Rachel and something a bit different. I enjoy watching
Rachel’s programs; she’s easy to follow, and she seems so genuinely lovely, yet
also speaks with confidence and demonstrates her knowledge. Rachel does have a
couple of other books on French cuisine, but Swedish sounded intriguing and
less norm.
It did help that I’d seen the companion show, and was
captivated by it; somehow, I found myself box-setting a one-series cooking
show; indeed it can be done.
Scandinavia does provide intrigue to me on a few levels.
I’ll start with the obvious for anyone that knows me. Cold.
I don’t do well with heat, so a place that is cold more often than not is going
to draw my attention.
Another attractive thing about the region is that in those
random surveys about countries that you find browsing the net or in the news
about living conditions, crime, education, government capability, and pretty
much anything, Nordic countries always seem to come out on top.
I do have a personal connection to the region also, not that
I’ve been, I will have to do so.
Literally in my vision attached to the wall behind the
monitor that I type this on, there is a certificate belonging to my late
grandfather, that I never had the chance to meet, for his part in the
liberation of Norway, signed in 1945. Yes, I know, it’s not Sweden, but its
next door!
Also, I have a fair amount of Scottish in me, so I’m near
enough Scandinavian, you can probably see it from Scotland, okay I don’t know
if you can, but it can’t be far off.
First Impressions
Okay, a first pleasant, albeit odd, observation. The book
has a texture to it in the hand.
I appreciate that if you’re reading on a tablet this is
largely irrelevant, but the cover is smooth; I want to say like suede, but not.
The experience of holding it is weirdly nice and exudes a level of elegance
before opening the book.
Flicking through the pages, the theme continues; again
high-quality paper. You can tell that a great amount of focus was put into the
finish of the product. I have many cookbooks, and this is one of the
best-constructed.
There are pictures throughout of all the dishes, which
personally I find very important for a cookbook, not just to provide an idea of
what is being aimed for, but in terms of appeal, and motivation.
The photos are fantastically composed, and every one is a
treat for the eyes. I’ve only taken one short course on food photography, as
previously reviewed on this blog, but from my perspective the shots couldn’t be
better taken.
I’ll have to open a thesaurus on the word quality, because
it’s going to come up a lot; everything about the book’s construction, from the
fonts to the cover is summed up by a word that I almost never use, perfection.
Structure
I’ve contemplated writing a cookery book many times before,
and this book is surprisingly structured in much the same manner as I planned,
which I’ve not seen before.
Following an introductory section, the book is split into
chapters by season, rather than by the traditional courses. I love this
approach as it feels as though the recipes are collated emotively rather than
purely categorically.
The only flaw if I were to label is so would be that you
would need to remember the season if it weren’t for the index or bookmark. Even
the saturation and hues of the photography appear designed to match the seasons
throughout.
The introduction, whilst not exhaustive, sets the scene well
and provides nice anecdotes to add a connection to Rachel while reading. A
great addition to each recipe is both tips and, where appropriate, preparatory
steps. From the recipes that I’ve used thus far, the tips have been useful.
Recipes
For a review of a recipe book, you may be interested in how
I got on with the recipes. As you expect as a benchmark, all ingredients are
clearly listed.
On occasion alternative ingredients are mentioned for items
that are more regional. The only instance I’ve cooked a recipe with a potential
substitute was pearled spelt, which I’d never bought before, but I managed to
get hold of it in Waitrose.
From my experience the instructions are clear and give a
firm understanding of the instruction. When making the Spelt Pudding, I’ll
admit that I had to look it up to make sure that I was doing it correctly as
the instructions and image didn’t seem to agree on how ‘wet’ the mixture should
be; I got through using my judgment and the result tasted great. I’m still not
sure it was as intended but I’ll be making it again.
Some of the recipes in the book are also in the television
show, which does add some guidance and inspiration to make the food.
One of the recipes that I made, räkmacka, basically an open
prawn sandwich, which tastes better than it sounds I made after seeing it in
the TV program.
As mundane as a prawn sandwich sounds its delicious, and if
you haven’t had it before, make sure that you do, it’s got to be on the lunch
equivalent of a bucket list.
Another lunch that I tried was falafels with red cabbage and
dill, in a Swedish flatbread. Apparently, falafels are quite popular
particularly in the south of Sweden. An unusual paring of ingredients, but this
is genuinely a delicious concoction.
Dill is one of my favourite herbs, and going by the amount
that it features in this book, I should be using it more.
As a typically savoury person, I’ve found that I’ve enjoyed a
few of the sweeter treats, perhaps because being an arctic influenced country
sugar is lesser in these dishes reducing the overall sweetness.
I’ve made a couple of deserts, the Spelt Pudding, with
honeycomb, and chocolate balls, resembling truffles.
I’ve always struggled with caramel, but the honeycomb came
out well, I knew that one must work quickly with anything involving hot sugar,
I just didn’t realize how quick! Any longer and I’m not sure that it would’ve
worked. Honeycomb and essentially a grain version of rice pudding, although
better, went well together. The lack of sugar was more than compensated by the
honeycomb.
Careful you don’t lose the cinnamon stick. I may have had to
fish a small amount of tree out of my bowl.
There’s a couple of dishes from this book that I’ve got
coming soon, the marmalade biscotti, grabbed my attention. Admittedly, I may be
the only person under the age of fifty to voluntarily buy marmalade regularly.
The seafood and saffron stew also looks particularly
inviting, I’ve got some saffron stowed away that I bought from making
lusserkater, a Swedish dish, although before I owned the book, which has this
as a recipe by coincidence.
Conclusion
An interesting note from a dietary perspective is that
although meat is present its not prevalent. I’m a pescatarian, and have been
for six years now, and this was barely impeded. There’s times were meat is
used, but it can easily be substituted in most cases, especially these days
when there’s a veggie alternative to anything.
I couldn’t more highly recommend this book, I’ve thoroughly
enjoyed using, and reading it.
If you’re a foodie, but fancy something a little different
cuisine-wise, Nordic is worth an exploration.
Most of the dishes are comforting and homely dishes, the
sort of thing that you’d be happy to eat whatever the weather.
The food in this book could easily raise a spirit or two,
they did for me!
Of the books that I own, this is definitely one of my favourites,
and has guaranteed that I’ll be buying others in Rachel’s collection.